Carcassonne is a magnificent fortified castle and town, the second most visited site in France after Paris. It was added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1997, and is only a 90 minute drive from the front gates of Chateau La Tour Apollinaire on the A9 and A61 autoroutes. The more scenic route from Perpignan to Carcassonne via Quillan also offers opportunities to visit other famous Cathar and Templar sites.

Carcassonne owes its division into two separate "towns" 'the Cité and the Ville Basse 'to the wars against the Cathars. Following Simon de Montfort senior's capture of the town in 1209, its people tried in 1240 to restore their traditional ruling family, the Trencavels. In reprisal King Louis IX expelled them, only permitting their return on condition they built on the low ground by the River Aude.

The attractions of the well-preserved and lively ville basse notwithstanding, what everybody comes for is the Cité, the double-walled and turreted fortress that crowns the hill above the River Aude. From a distance it's the epitome of the fairy-tale medieval town. Viollet-le-Duc rescued it from ruin in 1844, and his "too-perfect" restoration has been furiously debated ever since. It is, as you would expect, a real tourist trap. Yet, in spite of the chintzy cafés, arty-crafty shops and the crowds, you'd have to be a very stiff-necked purist not to be moved at all.

There is no charge for admission to the streets or the grassy lices "lists" between the walls, though cars are banned from 10am to 6pm. However, to see the inner fortress of the Château Comtal and to walk the walls, you'll have to join a guided tour. The seventy- to ninety-minute tours several per day in English from June to September assume some knowledge of French history, and point out the various phases in the construction of the fortifications, from Roman and Visigothic to Romanesque and the post-Cathar adaptations of the French kings.

In addition to wandering the narrow streets, don't miss the beautiful church of St-Nazaire , towards the southern corner of the Cité at the end of rue St-Louis. It's a serene combination of Romanesque nave with carved capitals and Gothic transepts and choir adorned with some of the loveliest stained glass in Languedoc. You can also climb the tower for spectacular views over the Cité.

You will love walking between the fortifications and the ramparts. At night it is even more magnificent as the fortress is illuminated and takes on a golden appearance. As you walk through La Cite' you will find many shops and restaurants to choose from. It's great to sit in the town square, have a nice dinner, sip a glass of wine and enjoy the atmosphere and entertainment. Mais oui, la vie est belle.

Cathars being expelled from Carcassone in 1209.